Preserving Ancient Wisdom: Rob Barber on the Khoisan Tribe and Ethical Safari Experiences in Botswana

How did your journey with the Khoisan begin? Can you share the story of how you first encountered them?

My journey with the Khoisan began in March 2004, shortly after I moved to Botswana. I was introduced to the Ju!hoasi tribe (the “!” in the name represents the click made when you sharply pull your tongue down from the roof of your mouth) of the Khoisan, who live in the Western Kalahari near the Namibian border. At the time, I was working for a company that ran anthropological safaris in the area. The owner of that company took the time to educate me over several months on their bio-history, ancestry, cultural practices, and norms.

From the moment I first encountered them, I was deeply struck by their ancient way of life and how it exists within a modern context. What amazed me most was how quickly I connected with them—it felt as though I had known them all my life. Their culture, outlook on life, and wisdom resonated with me on a profound level. I fell in love with their approach to the world, and that passion has never waned.

Can you describe what happens during the Khoisan ceremonies, particularly the “trance” dances with the healers? Could you explain the general setup?

The trance dance ceremonies of the Ju!hoasi take place at night, although on rare occasions, they may continue into the early morning, especially during significant or powerful ceremonial events. The ceremonies are centered around a fire, which serves as both a spiritual and physical focal point.

The setup is as follows: women and children sit in a circle or half-circle around the fire. Surrounding this, men and boys form a wider dancing circle. Within this line, only the experienced shamans—and sometimes highly skilled women—enter into trance. Not all men participate in this aspect; some contribute as dancers or singers, supporting the community ritual.

The shamans achieve a trance state through a combination of rhythmic clapping, songs sung by the women, focused breathing, chanting, and the pull of the fire. Two significant songs, translated as the “Honey Song” and the “Eland Song,” are integral to the process. The women’s voices create a rhythm and tone that, alongside the shamans’ controlled breathing, facilitates the entry into trance.

Once in a stabilized trance state, the shamans perform healing rituals using N!um, a spiritual energy believed to reside behind the belly button. Similar to power centers found in spiritual practices worldwide, N!um is channeled to heal physical, emotional, spiritual, and communal ailments. The ceremonies can last for hours or even until dawn, depending on the occasion.

Building trust with indigenous communities can be challenging. How did you earn the trust of the Khoisan, and what does that relationship mean to you personally and professionally?

Building trust with the Ju!hoasi has been a journey spanning over 20 years. It is rooted in mutual respect and a genuine interest in each other’s cultures. I have consistently sought to learn about their world while sharing their incredible anthropology with others in a way that honors their identity.

One of the most significant moments in our relationship came when members of their community invited my wife and me to their inaugural Kuru Dance Festival in 2016. This event took place a week before our wedding in the Okavango Delta. When I told them about our upcoming marriage, they simply said, “We’ll see you there—we’ll be at the wedding.” True to their word, seven members of the community attended, which was a profound honor.

On the morning of our wedding, one of their greatest shamans, Kgum!xo Tiqao, who had ceremonially named me his grandson in 2004, conducted our marriage ceremony alongside his wife. To be married by him in the heart of Botswana’s jewel, the Okavango Delta, remains one of the most cherished moments of my life.

From your perspective, how do the Khoisan view Western visitors? Do they see tourism as an opportunity, a challenge, or both?

The Ju!hoasi, like many indigenous communities, view tourism as both an opportunity and a challenge. It greatly depends on how visitors approach them.

When guests engage respectfully and authentically, the Khoisan reciprocate with warmth and openness. However, if visitors treat them as museum pieces or approach them with a voyeuristic attitude, the experience becomes stilted and far less meaningful. The energy guests bring is often reflected back to them.

The challenges arise from broader issues faced by indigenous peoples, such as the influence of money, alcohol, and opportunistic capitalism. These external forces have sometimes caused harm to their communities. Despite this, the Ju!hoasi I work with have retained much of their traditional way of life, enabling authentic and enriching interactions.

Some might argue that bringing Western tourists into indigenous cultures could lead to exploitation or loss of authenticity. How do you address the ethical concerns surrounding tourism and the Khoisan?

Authenticity is preserved through the remoteness of the Ju!hoasi’s homeland. Reaching their community requires significant effort, including helicopter travel into the Western Kalahari.

Our safaris are immersive, spanning three nights, and involve living within their environment rather than observing it from a distance. We educate guests on the importance of respecting the Ju!hoasi’s culture and work closely with the community to ensure their comfort and consent.

When approached ethically, tourism can play a crucial role in reversing the decline of cultural knowledge by providing economic incentives for younger generations to embrace and preserve their heritage.

Are the healing ceremonies and practices of the Khoisan open to participation by tourists, or are they strictly for the community? How is this communicated to visitors?

Visitors are welcome to participate in the Ju!hoasi’s ceremonies, including the healing rituals, provided they approach with genuine curiosity and respect. The level of engagement often reflects the energy that guests bring—those who are open and willing to connect typically have the most meaningful experiences.

Our professional guides, with decades of experience, ensure visitors understand the importance of these interactions and the cultural context behind them.

What do you think Western visitors can learn from experiencing the world of the Khoisan?

The Khoisan offer a window into humanity’s shared ancestral past. They embody a profound sense of spirituality, community, and connection with nature, which challenges the over-complications of modern life.

Visitors often leave with a new appreciation for simplicity, shared humanity, and the interconnectedness of all living things.

Thank you, Rob, for sharing your experiences. We hope to one day meet the Khoisan Bushmen ourselves.